Approach of one of the jury members
I do not have a reputation for encouraging the trend towards deliberately provocative, garishly coloured, mock-designer wines issued in unlimited editions.
It’s true, I don’t share the view that wine must adapt itself to the demands of the moment. Many would be quick to point out – certainly the wisest – that these demands change all the time according to place, habits, country and continent.
It will come as no surprise then to learn that I’m not impressed by an inky-black Pinot Noir; in fact, my instant reaction is to run a mile.
On this day of all days, I’d like it to be recorded that I expressed a hope – an idle dream perhaps – but a sincere desire in any case. This desire has a colour: it is red. Not any old red, but cardinal, alizarin red, aniline red, poppy; and the list does not end there.
This morning I had a vision of this red colour; I watched it carefully, lovingly, experienced it again and again, touched it almost. The name of this colour was Pinot Noir, and on my table it was anything but black!
That is why, despite an often overloaded work-schedule, I grasp the opportunity whenever it presents itself to be with you here, so that I can refresh myself and wash out the “toxins” brought back from my travels around the world. Here, I can rediscover the real value of these two great superstars among grape varieties… without forgetting Gamay, Aligoté or Sauvignon.
Alain Ducasse group